Granitny: Trek Along the Lost Ocean Shore

An adventure trek (as opposed to a meditative retreat), a nostalgic trek, a challenging trek. That’s Granitny in a nutshell. But let’s take it step by step.

The program is exceptionally rich: boat drop-off across Kola Bay passing Severomorsk and the Rosatom base, featuring views of warships and nuclear icebreakers. From there, the intensity only builds—steep fells, an abandoned naval town, kilometers wading in hip boots, epic river fords, 10-hour hiking days, terrestrial and marine wildlife—far too much to list.

The nostalgia, in my case, came from the polar day—last experienced 23 years ago—and all the fond memories tied to it; on a broader scale, from the aforementioned abandoned settlement of Granitny, an unfinished brick factory near Teriberka, and other relics of a bygone era.

And as for the challenge: 10 days with just one rest day (by no means lazy!), genuinely rugged terrain, 135 km, and 5,000 meters of elevation gain. The full package, just how we like it!

The team was a dream! Pavel Gennadievich never lets you down! Ilya is brilliant (cooking that well is priceless). Chum is a beast!

I wish everyone could experience this!

This trek was both a true challenge and an unforgettable adventure for me. It was the longest expedition I had ever undertaken, and because of that, I gained an immense amount of valuable experience and impressions. The tundra proved rugged and unforgiving, demanding endurance and patience, but it’s precisely in such conditions that you feel truly alive.

The expedition logistics were top-tier: every detail was thoroughly thought out, from routes to meals and safety. I particularly want to highlight the great food—meals were hearty and delicious, which is crucial on long treks.

The tundra wilderness is breathtaking, and these panoramas will stay with me for a long time. I recommend this trek to all adventure enthusiasts with good physical fitness—the tundra is totally worth it!

Who guides this trek? A person deeply in love with the North, who prepares with obsessive attention to detail for everything we might encounter on the trail!

From the very moment you sign up, Pasha guides and supports you, helps with packing, and offers in-depth advice on all gear and more. During the trek, Pasha kept a close eye on everything—shifting weather, how everyone was feeling—and made all necessary adjustments to the route and schedule accordingly. He was assisted by the equally fantastic Ilya! Our co-guide and camp chef, who managed to amaze us even in these harsh conditions!))))

And most importantly, I was fortunate to be surrounded by people who were just as excited about this journey as I was, and genuinely wonderful folks—Pasha clearly acts as a great magnet and filter for like-minded adventurers:)

Who is this trek for? For those willing to 'suffer' just a little to behold pristine beauty and untouched wilderness!)) Plus exploring an abandoned town, tunnels, and vintage machinery:) And doing lots of trekking with a full backpack, as most of the trip is done fully loaded))

But it's worth every bit: for 10 days, you completely disconnect from the rush, walking across moss and reindeer lichen, fording streams, climbing and descending fells, past endless cascading lakes and the vast sea.

Plus an abundance of wildlife: all sorts of birds (some singing non-stop through the night))), seals and whales (if you're lucky), bears (if you're a bit luckier), and blooming arctic plants and seaweed)) After 10 days, flat asphalt feels strange and walking on it is downright impossible!

My spontaneous trek across Kola. I had been following Pavel’s blog for nearly a year, reading his expedition logs and browsing photos, feeling increasingly drawn to heading north (even though I live in the north myself).

And then, what a miracle—a spot opened up for Granitny: Along the Lost Ocean Shore! It was my first serious trek, requiring thorough prep and gear. When I finally connected with Pasha over the phone, I was blown away by his professional, attentive, and detailed approach to each participant. He clearly explained every single item needed for the hike, offered recommendations, answered all questions, and provided an exhaustive guide with links and discount codes…

Any doubts that this was the trek for me vanished completely. I prepped intensely for a month, even traveled to Moscow for gear) and… off I flew to Murmansk!

The hotel Pasha picked was top-notch. Adventure and mind-blowing views started right from the boat transfer. Beyond every fell, grand new panoramas opened up! Rest stops and campsites were downright magical! Hearty, diverse, and delicious three-course daily meals (huge kudos to our second guide, Ilya).

Every detail was thought through by Pasha! And every one of us felt his deep passion for Kola) You could write endlessly about our expedition, but you're better off experiencing it yourself—you won’t regret it! My immense gratitude to Pasha and Ilya: you are true pros, thoughtful, caring, and attentive!

A reliable companion at the edge of the world—for a second I wondered who or what to describe that way: the sun that never set overhead for all ten days, or Pasha, who devised, planned, scouted, and leads this epic expedition through the heart of wind, sea, and tundra—'Granitny'.

It wasn't easy, but endlessly rewarding: every day brought shifting weather, terrain, vistas, wind, sea, and wildlife on the horizon. How many people get to hike from Murmansk to Teriberka across tundra and coastline in their lifetime? If you're pondering this trek right now, go for it—after all, the tundra loves us)

Despite the rugged terrain, there are no impassable technical sections along the route. Plenty of pure water, secluded coves, rivers, streams, and lakes. I've never seen so many lakes in a single day—I think we passed 15–20 lakes daily.

The route is quite demanding on gear, stamina, and sensitive to pack weight. Yet the care and attentiveness of Pasha and Ilya (the second guide) keep you going, and your feet carry you forward—just a couple more fells.

For the history, wilderness, and Arctic life of Kola, plus stunning photos by Rudenko—head for Granitny!